Switching Pullip stock bodies for Obitsu Soft Bust body types is very similar to switching to an Obitsu Hard Bust. Please keep in mind that this is how I did this, so you can use what you have available or substitute materials as you see fit. Let's get started!
Here is all the supplies you'll need. Your original Pullip, the replacement body, the bag of extra neck pegs that came with the new body, pliers, a fine tooth saw or other cutting implement, scissors, a butter knife, a set of small screwdrivers, tape, a marker, small rubber bands and adhesive velcro.
Start by removing your doll's wig from the back of her head. Some Pullips have fairly easy-to-remove wigs, but others have wigs that are glued very well. Look for a weak spot in the glue that you can use as your starting point.
If you have a hard time getting the wig off with your fingers, use a butter knife or other pointed item (i.e. a flathead screwdriver, a chopstick) to pry it up. Be careful not to scratch the head, but if you do it will most likely be covered by the wig anyway, so don't stress out.
If you don't want to remove the whole wig, you only need to pull it off to just past the seam that joins the two parts of the head. This will be far enough to do everything you need to do.
Expose the scalp by flipping the wig forward (or completely removing the wig, if you decided to remove it entirely).
Use your butter knife to pry the scalp off. This is glued to the head, so you'll probably hear a soft popping sound as the glue is broken.
This is what the back of the head looks like without the scalp (please excuse the velcro--that will come later). Notice where the red arrows indicate the three screws that need to be loosened to take the head apart.
Loosen the three screws. Be very careful not to lose them.
Take off the back of the head. Again, be very careful not to lose the three screws. Set the back of the head and the screws aside.
If you're worried about losing the screws, stick them to a piece of tape and fold the tape over them. This will keep them all together.
You can label the tape with a marker to tell you where the screws came from ('H' for head). This is especially useful if you're also doing other customizations involving the eye mechanism, as that uses different sized screws.
This is what the open head looks like.
Carefully slide the stock body out of the neck slot.
The open head and removed body. Set the stock body aside.
Get the new body and the extra neck pegs. Pull out the widest peg from the bag. The body should have the second smallest peg already on it. You'll need to switch out the pegs to fit the Pullip head.
Take out the current peg by sliding down the soft neck until you see the metal pin holding the peg in the neck. Using a very small screwdriver or another small implement like a pushpin, carefully push the pin out of the neck. DO NOT LOSE THE PIN! You can use the pliers to pull the pin out completely after you've gotten it started. Put the pin in a safe place.
Grab the largest neck peg and screw one of the loose eyescrews into the hole in the bottom.
Using the pliers, hold onto the peg at the base (NOT on the screw, or you may strip the screw) and cut off about half of the peg. The pliers will probably make some teeth marks in the plastic. That's okay. They won't show at all.
Check the fit into the Pullip head. There should be enough peg taken off to not interfere with the part of the eye mechanism that moves the eyes back and forth (the little metal circle in the middle). If the fit is good, feel free to file down the rough cut edges of the peg if you want to (although it's optional).
The base of the peg is not wide enough to fill the hole in the head, so you'll have to bulk it up with rubber bands. Small ones are best, since it doesn't take a lot of rubber band to fill that gap and you have to be able to get the head back together. The little clear ones that come with Barbie dolls are great (that's what's shown here), as are ones for braces. Just wrap it around the base of the neck peg.
This is what the neck should look like when you're done with the rubber band.
Fit the body into the head again, and adjust the rubber band(s) if needed to ensure a snug but not tight fit.
Fit the back of the head back onto the front and replace the three screws.
Since you broke the glue holding the scalp on, you'll need to reattach it. If you don't think you'll be opening the head again, you can glue it back on. If you want a more temporary fix, though, I recommend using adhesive velcro. Cut a piece to fit inside the scalp and another piece of the same size to fit the back of the head.
Attach the velcro to the inside of the scalp.
Attach the other piece of velcro to the back of the head.
Fit the two pieces together and make sure the velcro is stuck together.
As with the scalp, you'll need to reattach the wig as well. Again, glue is fine if you're not opening the head again (or if you don't mind dealing with the glue again), but the velcro works here too. Attach a piece to the back of the head, as close to the bottom of the wig as you can, and the other piece to the base of the wig.
Getting the wig pulled back down is a tight fit, especially with the added bulk of the velcro, so you'll have to be careful. With the type if velcro used here, you can use one piece on the head and just pull the wig down over it. It will hold with no problem (that's what I did).
The back of the head with the wig replaced and snug.
Congratulations! You've just given your girl a great new body! Have fun playing with her!
If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask me.
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